The Golden Rule of Espresso Coffee Making (My New Zealand Secret)

By now you've probably studied my 9 steps to making perfect espresso coffee and the separate section on making perfect crema. In the section on making perfect crema, I made reference to "The Golden Rule" you see frequently quoted: "Extract 2 to 2.5 ounces of coffee into your cup in 20 to 30 seconds from the moment you turn on the pump."

I have a completely different Golden Rule for making perfect espresso coffee, and I'm going to share it with you now.

Crema floating on top of an espresso

New Zealand, where I grew up, has an even more deeply entrenched "espresso coffee culture" than the United States, and there's one significant difference in how espresso is made in New Zealand cafes and coffee shops. That key difference is this: in the United States, espresso is typically brewed into a pitcher and then poured into the cup.

In New Zealand, and many other countries for that matter, the espresso is brewed directly into the cup from which it will be drunk. This one simple difference makes a huge difference in flavor. Why? The crema!

Crema is the caramelized coffee sugars and coffee proteins that float on top of a well-brewed espresso, carrying immense aroma and flavor. If you've had espresso and not liked it, it may be because the "barista" didn't do a good job of making it and literally threw most of the crema down the drain. How so? Quite easily — by using the technique popular in the U.S. of brewing the espresso into a pitcher and then pouring it into the cup, most of the crema is left clinging to the sides of the pitcher, washed down the drain. What a shame! But it happens millions of times a day, in every Starbucks and coffee chain you frequent. Why do they do it?

Espresso Crema — The Liqueur of Coffee

Crema consists of caramelized coffee sugars and coffee proteins. It forms only when you brew your coffee at the right pressure and the right temperature. Read more about how to make perfect crema.

Crema floating on top of an espresso shot in a
Stylish Glass Espresso Cup with Stainless Steel Handle

Here's an illustration of what I mean. I brewed an espresso into a glass demitasse cup so you can clearly see the caramel-like foam on top called "crema." Sometimes it may even appear milky-white when looking down on it, hence the name.

Then I poured the espresso out into another cup. Look at all the crema left behind on the sides of the demitasse cup! The same thing happens when coffee is extracted into a stainless steel pitcher and then poured into a cup. Why do American coffee shops wash crema down the drain?

So that's my Golden Rule: make your espresso directly into the cup from which you're going to drink it! Don't be guilty of washing your crema down the drain. You'll be amazed at the difference in flavor.

Related Reading

• 9 Steps to Perfect Espresso at Home
• Understanding Espresso Crema